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LIVING, DEAD - PART 1

Manila North Cemetery Houses More Warm Bodies Than Cold Corpses

PHOTOS AND TEXT BY BAHAG

10,000 Filipino families live in this massive graveyard in Manila. I recently spent five days walking among its residents taking photos and hearing stories of struggle and survival.

Some families ended up here almost accidentally. Some inherited the mausoleums that they now live in from their great-grandparents. Others came from the provinces and couldn’t make enough money to live in the big city. In all cases, they’re basically families with nowhere else to go.

The people who live here manage to extract livelihoods from the dead. Teenagers carry coffins for 50 Filipino pesos—about 50 American cents. Children collect scrap metal, plastic, and other garbage to sell. Their fathers are employed to repair and maintain tombs while their mothers maintain the house, which could be the family mausoleum or the mausoleum of their employers. Rent-free shanties are wedged between or on top of crypts.

Unlike many of my countrymen, I don’t see these folks as the destitute bottom-rung of society. I see them as living embodiments of the raw spirit of the Filipino people, a nation so tough it can and has survived under any sort of hardship.








Unidentified bones found around the Manila North Cemetery. Some families default on the leases on their tombs and the administration has no choice but to remove the bones.


Emmarie Bernardino is a 57-year-old dressmaker. Due to financial hardship, her family chose to sell their house and live inside their mausoleum. Imelda Domingo owns a small food store inside the cemetery. She is also a part-time mausoleum caretaker.


This is Jenelyn Guiwanon,19, with her 1-year-old daughter. She works for her mother-in-law (top right) taking care of the cemetery’s mini grocery store. Carolina S. Ameglio is a 67-year-old caretaker. She lives in the mausoleum where her husband is buried.



TO BE CONTINUED:
LIVING, DEAD
| 1 | 2 |

SEE ALL ARTICLES BY THIS CONTRIBUTOR

COMMENTS


Anonymous, on Jul 18, 2008 wrote:
may i know.. why are they prefer to live in the cemetery though there’s many places in the philippines?
Subject: This
Date: Dec 11 2007 09:27:01 AM
Author: Henny

This is a great neighborhood. People are dying to get in...Ba-dump-bump.



Subject: my fellow country men
Date: Dec 01 2007 12:35:32 PM
Author: Igie

I've always admired that it doesn't take much to keep my fellow country men happy. As long as they're with family, food, and singing...it goes to show us we really don't need much else.



Subject: .
Date: Nov 30 2007 04:05:49 PM
Author: .

Wow, this was a great piece to read. The families all look like they are healthy and happy. We all bitch and complain over such petty stuff here in Canada and the US, but for the majority of the world they make the best with what they have. A whole pound of metal just to make enough to sing karaoke...now that's hardship.



Subject: so fly in the P.I.
Date: Nov 29 2007 03:11:50 PM
Author: junior crack

yeah i went back there around this time in 2000 and was surprised to see so many people living in the cemeteries. what amazed me,like in this article, was that they were able to create homes in these mausoleums. like they had running water and tv set up in some of them. but aye when you order a drink, make sure to ask for no ice.



Subject: thats some shit
Date: Nov 29 2007 02:03:20 PM
Author: h

wow. thats hard.. and you assholes complain about your gheto projects..



Subject: skulls & bones
Date: Nov 29 2007 02:50:27 AM
Author: obscene_pickle

When I was 12 I went to the visit my mums family in the Philippines and we went to a cemetary in Cebu. I remember seeing a massive pit full of skeletal remains and I never really understood why it would be there. Now I know, so thanks for the education.



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