Seeing early-90s R&B style, poodles, banging hip-hop tunes, tattootists gone mad and surreal headwear combined felt like the birth of a new way of life, for a new sort of people. It’s also known as being really mindblowingly good at fashion. Nasir Mazhar is a 26-year-old Turkish guy from Leyton in east London. His previous shows majored on the surreal and history, but maybe this one was so incredibly good because it was just him, all the stuff he loves and with no fear.
Fresh or perverted, maybe both
Everyone is always writing about how men are getting more into fashion. See, the fashion industry would love that; if men could be persuaded to double their spend on fashion – to something like the same level as women – the fashion industry would be a third bigger and a lot richer. Anyway, it’s kinda true, men are slowly shaking whatever happened to the Victorians that made them so afraid of showing off. Normally the men’s shows in Milan and Paris happen a couple of months before the women’s, but London’s fashion week has grown a MAN day. When gayed-out fashion people, who grew up spending too much time with their mum’s magazines, try and put a masculine spin on the female-dominated fashion industry’s products it doesn’t work that well in the real world. Winning over the men’s style press is easy and too much like preaching to the converted. Read more »
Pringle = internationally recognised shorthand for cool
Pringle of Scotland are famous for their jumpers and ultra desirable knitwear, but they also have a high fashion line. Pringle, who are making a real effort to present their brand in a cool, modern way, collaborated with some art world figures and showed at the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea. (Internationally recognised shorthand for cool, number 1).
Pissing in Jonathan Saunders’ sink
Jonathan Saunders is a pretty big deal on the phashion scene – a real fly guy, he even quit showing in London and had been quaking the catwalks in NYC for a while before returning this season. We went to crash this Saunders guy’s party and see what was up with the Beefeater’s Gin sponsorship and make out with old men.
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Do you remember electroclash?
Macedonian designers Marjan Pejoski and Sasha Bezovski have owned their Kokon to Zai stores in London and Paris for years. The London branch used to sell records and it helped kick-start that whole electroclash thing, but they only launched their own demented label KTZ a couple of seasons back.
LFW - Big name designers we can live with
This fashion week we chose the establishment shows we wanted to go to on merit. However, most of the shows didn’t have any. Monday, though, meant Marios Schwab, Christopher Kane, and a film shot by Vice contributor Ryan McGinley for Pringle and Showstudio. Here’s an accelerated run through of the best “the Man” has to offer.
Komakino like skulls
Today is London Fashion Week’s final day, MAN day. Komakino aren’t on the official schedule, no one knows why though. It’s exciting as shit, involves wearing loads of black and flirting with humanity’s dark side. That should be the established route to becoming the sort of label that’s loved by fashion insiders, misunderstood by the press, and eventually becomes massive. We said hello to one half of Komakino, Frederico Capalbo.
LFW - The rest of the population will love it
Last time Topshop Unique’s show was way ahead of the curve. They milked the techno-hippie, crop circles and trance vibe. The grey and fluoro designs further convinced me that one day high street fashion will be more fashion-forward than the designer labels. Read more »
LFW - Erections
After three days spent surrounded by skinny bitches and queens, one begins to crave some serious man cock. Lord knows I have. This is why I so thoroughly enjoyed the presentation by Stevie J and Yoni P and the Puppet Theatre. Instead of showing their collection on models, Puppet Theatre chose to display their pieces on oversized, slightly wonky looking puppets – most of which had huge, towering erections. Very sexy.
LFW - Lulu Kennedy tells us how designers make it
Lulu Kennedy’s MAN and (today’s) Fashion East shows are known for having given countless designers their big break. The editors of fashion magazines also love her because she makes it easy for them to work out who they should write about. So we decided to find out how to impress her and what designers like Marios Schwab, Gareth Pugh and Cassette Playa did right.
