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Viceland Fashion

REAL MEN LOVE STONE ISLAND

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Stone Island is the sort of fashion loved by real men who do hard, sweaty jobs. Last month, I was asked to visit Stone Island’s northern Italian HQ with a load of competition winners and the company’s sales guys. Men’s fashion isn’t all techno bears or skinny goth rent-boys; these guys were hard-drinking geezers and completely into clothes.

It was the most macho fashion event I’ve ever been to by a mile. One of the sales guys was a cage fighter, and by about 3am, after at least seven hours of non-stop lager, one of the competition winners was pissed enough to think challenging him to a fight was a good idea. He lost.

That defeated guy also asked me why I had to wear purple trousers, as though I’d let humanity down by making difficult fashion choices. For some reason, over the three days, I didn’t mention the me-being-gay thing. It’s not like I thought I’d have gotten beaten up – they were pretty sophisticated guys and probably didn’t give a shit – but if you don’t mention the gay thing right away, when exactly do you bring it up without looking like some fashion snob who thinks that mechanics from the north hate gay guys? I’m an idiot.

Anyway, unlike Burberry, who try and distance themselves from it, Stone Island’s owner Carlo Rivetti specifically told me he was proud of Stone Island’s association with football. Historically, their biggest fan base in the UK has always been northern football fans. Stone Island’s over-engineered, fancy, technology-advanced coats (that do stuff like change colour in the cold and reflect light from 500m) reinforce the hyper masculine appeal of that shoulder-mounted label. Stone Island a big deal in a world where men spend on coats like women do on bags.

While I was out getting drunk and pretending to like pussy, I interviewed the Stone Island competition winners.

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Lewis Armit, 28, is a blacksmith from Edinburgh.

Vice: How did you first hear about Stone Island?
Lewis: I was 13 and in Italy on holiday with my family and saw a guy wearing it on a scooter, and Stone Island embedded itself in my brain from then on.

What did you first buy?
Back in 1996, I bought a jacket that I saved my first six weeks’ pay for and loved it like a member of my family.

Why do you like it?
It being the only label to make jackets for eccentric egomaniacs by eccentric egomaniacs.

Why it worth so much money?
Purely for the quality, and after seeing the development on fabrics, you really see the sheer work volume towards a finished piece.

How did you like your trip?
The same way Charlie liked the chocolate factory.

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Craig McNeil, 35, is a London taxi driver from Hackney.

Vice: How did you first hear about Stone Island?
Craig: Seeing people wearing these different coloured jackets in and around London.

When did you first buy it?
My first piece was a burgundy jumper bought in the mid 90s.

Why do you like it?
The simplicity of the design and structure of the clothing.

Why is it worth so much money?
The developing of new technology has to be paid for somehow, and if we  don’t pay for the clothes then that will be the end of the brand.

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Connor McClaren, 18, is a Nissan production line worker from Sunderland.

Vice: How did you first hear about Stone Island?
Connor: I remember the first time I saw a Stone Island coat was around 2006-7 at the football. Seeing it week in, week out really got me into it. Then I started buying on eBay.

When did you first buy it? What did you buy?
Think my first bit of Stone Island was around 2007 – a hooded shimmer. I never took it off. Recently, the coats have become a lot harder to get hold of and more expensive on eBay. A lot of my coats are nearly as old as me.

Why do you like it?
It’s unique; Stone Island’s founder, Carlo Rivetti, is a genius. The reflective jackets [below] are unreal!

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It was fun, but I really wish I’d said I was gay. Damn it.

DARYOUSH HAJ-NAJAFI

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